“Conscious” Skin Care
Our “conscious” professional skin care lines blend the best of science and nature – utilizing evidence-based research and “skin conscious” beauty. If an ingredient irritates the skin or causes harm, we simply use a safe alternative.
Look for the symbols below on your products.
Parabens are preservatives. Parabens (isobutyl parabens, ethyl parabens, methyl parabens, propyl parabens, butyl parabens) have been used in cosmetics for many years and efficiently protect them against germs. However, they are suspected to cause allergies. Principally, parabens are listed as ingredients in cosmetics on the positive list, meaning that their utilization is allowed. Sensitive skin may, however, react with intolerances. Therefore, they were often replaced in the last years by other substances with preserving, anti-microbial properties. Additional critical factor: The structure of parabens is very similar to the female sexual hormone estrogen, they are absorbed via the skin and are suspected to trouble the hormonal balance. The German office for risk valuation points out that due to the uncritical maximum quantity used there is no sufficient proof for a health risk. Shop paraben free products — >
DMC stands for Derma Membran Complex: Its structure and composition with skin-similar ingredients are guided by human skin and can therefore be designated as “skin-related”. DMC has ha barrier-stabilizing effect and guarantees excellent skin tolerance. Ideal for sensitive, irritated skin.
THIS PRODUCT CONTAINS VITAMIN
Retinol, vitamin A, vitaminum a, antixerophthalmic vitamin, axerophthol, epithelium protection vitamin, oleovitamin A, vitamin A1, growth vitamin, retinal, vitamin A palmitate. It regulates the hornification of skin, has a cell-regenerating and mitosis-improving effect. A vitamin A deficit leads to dryness, flakiness and wrinkle formation of skin. Retinol and its provitamin, the beta carotin, can be used in skin creams, oils, masks and hair care products.
THIS PRODUCT CONTAINS ACID.
The most frequently used acids in cosmetics are the alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA).
AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), is the category of acids like glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid which are commonly known as „fruit acids“. AHA-containing products are recommended and enormously effective on sun-damaged, dry and/or horny skin. They loosen dead skin flakes from the epidermis and help new skin cells to reach the surface.
PHA (poly hydroxy acid), (among others lactobionic acid) acts similar to AHA. Due to their larger molecule these acids are less skin-irritating. So this acid type is perfectly tolerated by sensitive skin. The main BHA (beta hydroxy acid) is the salicylic acid. It is exactly the same acid as also used in the Aspirin medicament. BHA acid is able to deeply cleanse the pores, to efficiently free them from impurities and to replenish its radiance.
The main difference between the alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid is that AHA is water-soluble while BHA is fat-soluble. Therefore, salicylic acid (BHA) is able to penetrate the fat of the sebaceous glands and to remove the blocked skin cells within this gland which may clog its opening. BHA is recommended for a skin showing black heads, pimples and deposits.
This product contains peptides. Peptides are highly efficient anti-aging ingredients with a signal function for skin. A peptide is an organic compound consisting of several amino acid chains, which in a corresponding number (at least 100) develop proteins. Peptides are able to positively influence the body’s functions. Its signal effects cause the body to better take care of its physiological functions such as cell vitality, cell growth and skin renewal. Due to the use of the corresponding messenger substances and stimulants it is possible this way among others to actively support skin’s regeneration process. The individual peptides have different modes of action, such as: stimulation of the collagen and hyaluronic acid production and noticeable improvement of skin’s elasticity (oligopeptides, tripeptides) or positive influence on expression lines (hexapeptides). Peptides play a significant role in the “anti-aging” cosmetics. In nature, they are widely spread as messenger substances and hormones. Also their decomposition products, the amino acids, have a prominent position in the skincare field.
THIS PRODUCT CONTAINS NATURAL FRAGRANCES
These fragrances are of natural origin and are mainly gained from plants. Above all, they are used in natural cosmetics. But some of its natural substances like for instance lime or geranium oil belong to the ingredients to be declared in order to pointedly inform persons suffering from allergies.
NO COLORANTS ARE ADDED TO THIS PRODUCT
Their only purpose is to give color to a cosmetic product – that’s all. They have no special task besides their purpose of providing a more attractive appearance to a cream or emulsion. Colorants are usually known as the designation Cl plus a five-digit number = Color-index number. For example: Cl 77891 is the mineral titanium dioxide which is used as physical light protection filter. Some of the chemical colorants contain aromatic amines or aniline which are suspected to cause cancer. Persons tending to sensitive skin or allergies should take care to avoid the use of products with colorants.
NO ANIMAL INGREDIENTS
All ingredients used in this product are of either natural or synthetic resp. biotechnological origin. This statement is important for persons who live vegan and who follow this philosophy not only regarding their nutrition but also in their entire life. When selecting alternative ingredients we take care that synthetic or biotechnological substances were not subject to any animal testing by the manufacturers.
There are different opinions regarding silicone oil. It has both advantages and disadvantages. Non-soluble silicone oils are e.g. “Dimethicone“, „Cyclomethicone“, „Cyclopentoxilase“, „Dimethiconol“. Water-soluble silicones are „Amodimethicone“, „Polysiloxane“, „PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone“ or „Dimethicone Copolyol“. Silicone oil forms a water-repellent film on skin’s surface which protects against moisture loss. Allergic reactions to this substance have not been reported. Silicone oils last forever, fix fragrances on skin and do not feel greasy. But: If there is too much silicone oil in a cream, the sweat may be blocked, the skin under the film may swell and become brittle. Therefore, the concentration to be used must be selected very carefully.
Polyethylene glycols – PEG – are chemical compounds which effectively combine lipids and moisture. They are emulsifiers with a pleasant formulation. In the INCI they are normally found as the abbreviation PEG and a number. Sodium Laureth Sulfate also belongs to the PEG group. A typical example is Laureth-9, often utilized in cosmetics as emulsifier and in dermatology as local anesthetic. PEG are used in cosmetics as surface-active excipients. Depending on their composition, they serve as solubilizers, emulsifiers, surfactants, lipid replenishing and moisture-maintaining agents. PEG improve the penetration ability, i.e. skin becomes more permeable for ingredients, but as a consequence also for possible toxic substances. Therefore, the use of PEG is discussed controversially.
NO MINERAL OIL
This product contains no mineral oils or derivates. These oils (Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Paraffinum Liquidum, Paraffinum Subliquidum, Cera Microcristallina, Microcrystalline Wax, Ozokerite Wax, Ceresin, Vaseline) are odorless and purified oils which have been used in cosmetics for many years due to the fact that they seldom cause allergies or skin irritations. While plant oils are similar to the natural lipids of skin and therefore penetrate into the upper layer of skin, mineral oils remain on skin’s surface where they develop their protective effect.
Emulsifiers form an emulsion or a cream out of water and oil mixtures. With the concentration of the emulsifier the risk of skin-barrier disturbances increases. Alternatives are (skin-identical) ceramides or an alternative cream basis such as creams with DMC. DMC stands for Derma Membran Complex: Its structure and composition with skin-similar ingredients are guided by human skin and can therefore be designated as “skin-related”. DMC has ha barrier-stabilizing effect and guarantees excellent skin tolerance. Ideal for sensitive, irritated skin. The Derma Membrane Complex is an intelligent ingredient delivery system which can be described as „ingredient shuttle“. This shuttle perfectly delivers the ingredients barrier-free into skin. The cosmetic efficiency of products containing the Derma Membrane Complex is far more direct and quicker. The products have an enormous skin tolerance, offer an immediate effect and help to restore the natural protective barrier of skin.
Perfumes in cosmetics have a odor-masking, deodorizing or perfuming effect and also diminish the basic odor of a product ingredient. However, perfumes may also irritate skin and cause allergies. Almost every fifth German shows an allergic reaction after the use of perfumed products. Besides the INCI name “perfume”, additionally 26 perfumes exceeding a certain concentration must be listed individually due to their suspected higher allergy potential in comparison with others. Examples are: limonene, citral and benzyl alcohol. Perfume-free cosmetics is a very good alternative for sensitive and allergy-prone skin types.
THIS PRODUCT CONTAINS NO FRAGRANCE
In order to avoid hypersensitive reactions, also fragrance mixtures are indicated in the INCI list as „fragrance“ (perfume). Since 2003, certain fragrances are indicated separately: 26 fragrances which are associated more often than others with allergic reactions. The list contains both synthetic and natural substances. When limits of determined concentrations are exceeded, these substances must be marked with their individual INCI designations on the packaging of cosmetic products.
Hyaluronic acid is able to bind approx. 6000 times more water than its own weight. So it is above all suited for the use against the visible signs of aging: wrinkles. Even though most of the hyaluronic acid in our body is found in skin, where it holds together the cells, it is almost everywhere in our body.
As early as age 25, the body’s own production of hyaluronic acid diminishes. At the age of 60, only about 10% of the initial quantity of hyaluronic acid is still found. Hyaluronic acid (high-molecular) intensely hydrates skin and protects it against dryness. Super hyaluronic acid (low-molecular) promises an optimal water-binding capacity in the epidermis. Dryness lines are visibly diminished leaving skin looking soft and supple. Due to its moisturizing and moisture-binding properties, hyaluronic acid makes skin looking clear, plump and radiant.
THIS PRODUCT CONTAINS ANTI-OXIDANTS
Anti-oxidants are substances which are able to catch free radicals. They are therefore also called radical scavengers. A radical is a molecule containing an unpaired (single) electron. Normally, electrons use to occur pairwise in molecules and have a low energetic status. Radicals, however, are highly reactive. They attack other molecules and start a “chain reaction”. Undesired reaction products and new radicals develop which cause damage to the skin or the body. When two radicals meet they destroy themselves. This applies to anti-oxidants; after a reaction with a radical, they become a low-energy radical themselves which catches and neutralizes a further energy-rich radical stopping the chain reaction like this.
THE PRODUCT WAS TESTED DERMATOLOGICALLY
This statement explains that the product was tested under the supervision of a dermatologist. Naturally, it is in our interest to market a good and above all safe product. We safeguard this with several tests, a.o. dermatological tests